Spring-Summer: A Behind-the-Scenes Look at Ukraine's Fashion Industry Amid Russia’s War

Featuring renowned designers such as Ruslan Baginskiy, Lilia Litkovska, Katya Silchenko, Yulia Pelypas, Anna Oktyabr, Nadya Shapoval, and many others, Spring-Summer explores the evolving narrative of Ukrainian fashion, from personal stories to behind-the-scenes glimpses of fashion shows.

According to the press release, the film delves into how Ukrainian designers have continued to thrive on the global stage despite the challenges posed by the Russian invasion, with Ukrainian fashion making waves in international fashion capitals.

“We want to showcase how incredible Ukrainian fashion is. Today, our designers dress Beyoncé, show collections at the major Fashion Weeks, and reinterpret authenticity in a way that appeals to the world. In a reality where it seems almost impossible to create, Ukrainian fashion is making a global impact. But where did it all begin? That is what we explore in this film,” says Andrii Haidut, founder of SKVOT.

The documentary brings together 18 designers, fashion influencers, and celebrities who champion Ukrainian fashion, to answer a pivotal question: how is fashion born in a time of war? Through the lens of Spring-Summer, viewers will see how collections were developed in bomb shelters, how brands were evacuated under fire, and how Ukrainian designers have rediscovered their roots in the face of adversity.

“This film is not just about beautiful clothes. It’s about creativity and national identity. It’s about how Ukrainian designers take on the most challenging artistic task – to find themselves and make their voices heard in the world,” shares Inna Chut, co-founder of SKVOT.

Directed by Tonya Noyabryova, known for her previous work Do You Love Me?, which was showcased at the Berlinale, Spring-Summer offers a powerful narrative of survival and creativity in the world of fashion.

As the ongoing war ravages Ukraine, the country’s fashion industry continues to show incredible resilience. However, Ukrainian designers have found themselves battling not only the pressures of war but also the unauthorized appropriation of their designs by Russian brands.

One notable case involves Ukrainian brand Anna October, whose signature slip dress was reportedly copied by Russian brand Ushatava. The dress, celebrated for its sleek, minimalist design, was showcased by Anna Oktyabr in her recent collection. But later, Ushatava presented an almost identical version on their social media platforms.

This isn't the only case of intellectual property theft from Ukrainian fashion houses. JUL x Ukrainian Folks, a collaborative collection featuring bold designs with a nationalistic flair, was also targeted. A Russian print-on-demand service began selling t-shirts with the same designs—without any authorization or credit to the original creators.

In yet disturbing case, Santa Brands, a well-known Ukrainian luxury label, was hit by an imitation from Russian brand Mesh n Flesh. The brand’s iconic crystal-encrusted silver dress was copied and presented by the Russian brand with almost identical designs, right down to the intricate beading and metallic sheen.

Ukrainian brands continue to shine on the global stage. Recently, LITKOVSKA, the acclaimed Ukrainian fashion house, has made a major debut at Paris Fashion Week, securing a spot on the official runway for the first time and unveiling its Fall-Winter 2026/27 collection, FIREFLY.

The collection reflects the concept of an inner light that endures, even in challenging times. It symbolizes hope and unity amidst uncertainty. A custom fragrance, inspired by the essence of Kyiv—its cold air, stone, smoke, and the presence of its people—was created for the runway show, capturing the city’s atmosphere during this difficult winter.

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